So today it was time. We already had at the beginning of February berichtetthat the first tuning project for our Opel Corsa D is due in 2016. This time not by voting as usual, but rather, very narrow-minded and selfishly determined by ourselves. 😀 How already mentioned we wanted to give our black OPC rims a new coat of paint and it seemed much more appealing because the possibility to do it all with spray film from mibenco and to do without the classic painting or powder coating. Before I describe my experiences and the process, I would like to tell you that they were installed in May 2015 PIN-Stripe rim rings in white Although they looked good optically, if you ever have the thought of removing them again then just don't imagine that they will be removed and good! The only thing that can be peeled off is the white film, the glue stays exactly where it was - on the rim!
No matter - 90 minutes and what felt like a liter of silicone remover later, the problem was resolved and you could start.
Here you can see the scope of delivery. We received 17 primers in orange sufficient for a set of 3 inch aluminum rims. 2 x the actual color in copper metallic, 4 x cover cards for the rims and a spray boy, which should make painting easier.
Of course, before starting we need a thorough cleaning, which I unfortunately even had to do with rim cleaner in order to get the last remaining glue away somehow. I also recommend thorough cleaning with a suitable cleaner, but keep in mind that every cleaning agent contains silicones, which urgently need to be removed using a silicone remover before painting. The job I had originally learned as a painter and varnisher was able to help me after 15 years off the job.
As step two, I attached the rim cards, before the rims were of course dried from the water and, as mentioned, completely degreased using a silicone remover.
I removed the last dust residues with a conventional cloth and another silicone remover. I would recommend you Dust cloth or honey cloth called what every paint shop sells for a few cents. However, since the whole project did not take place in a “clean room” like a paint booth, I didn't want to overdo it because dust particles flying around cannot be avoided when painting outside a paint booth.
Here is the degreased and cleaned rim.
You start with a thin layer of primer. If I were you, I would deliberately apply the first layer extremely thinly, never covering it. The background is that any tiny fat particles can be painted over by the "fogging" and a basis for the next thicker layer is created, which then begins to run less quickly. After waiting a good 4-5 minutes you can see that this thin layer is already matt and can therefore be painted over. Alternatively, you can also use a hair dryer to help, but don't forget that this can stir up dust.
Then the next slightly thicker layer, which should dry for a good 15 minutes. I then repeated the process again and the first can was already used up. The picture shows the second run which I then let dry for a good 20 minutes and used up the can 2.
After a complete run with the third can, the rim looked like this after 15 minutes of drying. At this point came the first and only problem. The spray boy - sorry but if you are not a professional finger body builder 😀, you give up at this stage at the latest. The idea with the spray aid is quite good, but who knows that even simply pressing the spray head with your finger requires a certain amount of force, especially in the long term, you can imagine that the leverage effect extended by 3-4 cm is all about one many times heavier. For me it was over at this point and I took the last can in the conventional way, which was no problem at all, and finished the primer.
After it had dried, the first pass with the Copper Metallic followed, which, like with the primer, I only started with “misting”. After a drying time of 5-10 minutes, there was a real paint job, which should be started with the inner edges of the spokes if possible. The rest of the rim star gets enough color and if you have painted the spokes, you can still paint the star and the rim well after painting if necessary.
The last pass already showed during the painting how it would look in the end. This time I waited a good 20 minutes and then took the last step, by which I also started again with the inner edges of the spokes and only at the end painted the rim edge and finally the entire rim again. A big plus point, especially for inexperienced users, is that the mibenco spray film is not a classic paint and the viscosity is much lower. That is to say, the danger of runners (so-called "noses") is not so high what a layperson would like.
Important! After completing the last run, immediately remove the protective cards and, as with us, remove the masking of the valves so that the spray film does not connect to them.
The end result is really impressive for a paint job outside of a paint booth and from a spray can. No orange peel, no dust inclusions. An absolutely even color / pigment gradient and a really smooth surface that you can simply peel off if necessary.
You can see what the rims look like on our Corsa HERE. And so that you can enjoy the rims for a long time, a rim seal should be applied to protect the surface. It is worth taking a look at our guide. And this is how you maintain the foiling / partial foiling on the vehicle.
Ps. Sorry, if the color tones appear different, the lighting conditions were not the best. Incidentally, other terms for this type of paint are peel-off paint, peel-off lacquer, rim film, rim spray, liquid rubber spray, rubber dip, rubber spray, soft lacquer, spray plastic and spray film.
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